Pura Tanjung Sabtu, an architectural treasure of Terengganu, where time stands still.

 

Tengku Ismail bin Tengku Su

Tengku Ismail is a well known Songket designer and conservator of traditional Terengganu Malay timber houses. He also designs fine jewellery for ladies and exclusive buttons for Malay gentlemen's costumes.

In 1991 he received the Royal Warrant of Appointment from the Terengganu Sultan in recognition of his supply of fine Songket to the Royal Court.

In 1998 he was greatly honored by H.R.H. Sultan Mizan Zainal Abidin who commissioned him to restore the 300-year old Terengganu Crown Jewels. Tengku Ismail also created a new Songkok Crown in white gold encrusted with diamonds used during the Istiadat Bersiram Tabal, the Royal Bathing ceremony, at the coronation of H.R.H. Sultan of Terengganu in March 1999.

He would watch avidly while the village weavers worked and together with basic knowledge of textile weaving he pursued his studies at the Westminster College in London. Self-taught in the art of fine Songket weaving, he started to revive and revolutionise this cottage Songket textile industry in 1979 by introducing new designs and colour schemes apart from using traditional Songket motif derived from the family heirloom collections.

Traditional designs are as interesting as they sound… such as Pucuk Rebung, bamboo shoot; or Lawi Ayam, chicken feather; Bunga Tampuk Buah Kesemak Teluk Berantai, corolla of persimmon motif; and various floral motifs. These beautiful old-school designs serve as inspiration for new creations. Apart from the "ikat" he also experimented and incorporated Javanese Garuda and Cheribon, the "Mega Mendong" cloud-forming batik motif into Songket. His Songket creations were even sought after by the internationally acclaimed Japanese couturier Hanae Mori.

For the year 2005, Tengku Ismail is working on a collection inspired by the geometric interlacing Arabeques patterns associated with tile and stucco decoration in the Alhambra Palace, Granada 14th century Islamic Spain and the 16th century Imperial Ottoman textile collection at the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey.

His other specialty and passion is the reproduction of antique court jewellery and decorative art of the ceremonial Kris, pendant or brooch, bracelet, button, and the "Mitar" that is a rectangular embossed gold panel for throne dais (gold and silver utensils for ceremonial use).

 

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