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Pura
Tanjung Sabtu, an architectural treasure of Terengganu, where time stands
still.
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Pura
Tanjung Sabtu is located on 14 acres of lawns, gardens and fruit orchards,
a family inheritance. Once the country retreat of the late H.H. Sultan
Zainal Abidin III of Terengganu, it lies on a promontory of the slow-moving
Nerus River, a tributary of Terengganu River, overhung with luxuriant
natural vegetation of bamboo, Rengas trees and Nibong palm. Its name
is a combination of the Sanskrit word Pura which means "palace,
temple or city", and Tanjung Sabtu which is the name of
the village where it is located. Terengganu
was one of the least developed east coast states before oil brought
wealth in the early 1970’s. Before the trunk road was built in early
1930’s, Terengganu was cut off from the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia
for three months every year during the monsoon season that is from
November to February. The only transportation then was by boat using
a sea-route along the coast. This
perhaps helped to preserve its unique cultural tradition and architecture.
Newfound wealth brought in development that in a way contributed to
the dereliction of the architectural heritage of Terengganu. The widening
of the road and building of commercial buildings and new housing estates
displaced the traditional kampung or village way of life, and
with it, the support of traditional all-timber Malay houses. Pura
Tanjung Sabtu is built in the style of a rustic yet princely Terengganu
palace. It is a major conservation work ensuring the survival of nine
(9) endangered 19th century Terengganu Malay timber houses. The houses
are elevated about three meters above ground, which provides air circulation,
protection from flooding and for stray wildlife. The houses have steep
tiered roofs with curved gable ends, the “Peles” is constructed from
Chengal (Neobalanocarpus Heimii) timber, well known for its durability.
A
unique feature of the traditional Malay houses of Terengganu is the
absence of nails in their construction. “Pasak” or pegs made from
Naga wood are used instead of nails. Such techniques are also common
such as in the construction of Perahu Besar or "Malay
sailing junk" in Terengganu, and world renowned. Brought together
to be preserved for future generations, it has been the work of one
man, Tengku Ismail bin Tengku Su - a second cousin to the present
H.R.H the Sultan of Terengganu on the maternal side. Tengku
Ismail was first inspired through his upbringing in the royal family
home of Dalam Kota Istana Maziah, a complex of wooden palaces originally
built in the early 18th century by Sultan Mansur Shah I of Terengganu
(1726-1793), but greatly enlarged by Sultan Zainal Abidin III (1881-
1918) in the early 20th century. His
travels abroad to Europe, Thailand, Indonesia and especially Japan
were also influential. While working at Malaysia Pavillion during
the world exposition 1970, Expo’ 70 Osaka (Japan), Tengku Ismail visited
Nijo-Jo Palace built by the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu, in 1603.
This traditional Japanese wooden palace deeply impressed him. It was
then that he decided that one day he would do everything in his power
to preserve the traditional architecture of his home town state. Visits
to Jim Thomson's house, the Suan Parkkard Thai wooden palace in Bangkok,
to various palaces and stately homes in Europe further fueled his
enthusiasm to embark on his mission. Through his passion and dedicated
effort, Tengku Ismail's vision to recapture Terengganu's vanishing
architecture heritage has led to the materialisation of his dream
- the Pura Tanjung Sabtu. Pura
Tanjung Sabtu is an architectural marvel and unique manifestation
of grandeur. Between 1992 and 1996, Tengku Ismail quite literally
moved houses and reassembled them at Kampung Tanjung Sabtu. Using
the original house-forms of eleven abandoned and dilapidated timber
houses between 150 to 200 years old, he rehabilitated them into this
centuries-old reincarnation. Wall-panels, pillars, Singhora clay tile
and gables from other houses were also salvaged to replace elements
that were missing or rotten. The
complex is divided into two wings. Visitors and guests enter through
the Balai or main entrance hall, the Rumah Seberang Baroh consisting
of an open one-sided wall-panel of "Dinding Kembung Keset" Finely
planed boards were fitted vertically and pegged into position by narrow,
wooden cover-ribs. Here, a platform extends out as an ideal location
for evening entertainment. The Singhora clay tiles and graceful gables
for the roof of these houses were retrieved from the dismantled wooden
palaces of Dalam Kota Istana Maziah. All the seven houses of the main
complex, averaging 20 feet by 30 feet each, are connected by raised
wooden walkways. The names given to the houses are those of villages
from where they were brought. Back to Main
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