Pura Tanjung Sabtu, an architectural treasure of Terengganu, where time stands still.

 

Pura Tanjung Sabtu is located on 14 acres of lawns, gardens and fruit orchards, a family inheritance. Once the country retreat of the late H.H. Sultan Zainal Abidin III of Terengganu, it lies on a promontory of the slow-moving Nerus River, a tributary of Terengganu River, overhung with luxuriant natural vegetation of bamboo, Rengas trees and Nibong palm. Its name is a combination of the Sanskrit word Pura which means "palace, temple or city", and Tanjung Sabtu which is the name of the village where it is located.

Terengganu was one of the least developed east coast states before oil brought wealth in the early 1970’s. Before the trunk road was built in early 1930’s, Terengganu was cut off from the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia for three months every year during the monsoon season that is from November to February. The only transportation then was by boat using a sea-route along the coast.

This perhaps helped to preserve its unique cultural tradition and architecture. Newfound wealth brought in development that in a way contributed to the dereliction of the architectural heritage of Terengganu. The widening of the road and building of commercial buildings and new housing estates displaced the traditional kampung or village way of life, and with it, the support of traditional all-timber Malay houses.

Pura Tanjung Sabtu is built in the style of a rustic yet princely Terengganu palace. It is a major conservation work ensuring the survival of nine (9) endangered 19th century Terengganu Malay timber houses. The houses are elevated about three meters above ground, which provides air circulation, protection from flooding and for stray wildlife. The houses have steep tiered roofs with curved gable ends, the “Peles” is constructed from Chengal (Neobalanocarpus Heimii) timber, well known for its durability.

A unique feature of the traditional Malay houses of Terengganu is the absence of nails in their construction. “Pasak” or pegs made from Naga wood are used instead of nails. Such techniques are also common such as in the construction of Perahu Besar or "Malay sailing junk" in Terengganu, and world renowned. Brought together to be preserved for future generations, it has been the work of one man, Tengku Ismail bin Tengku Su - a second cousin to the present H.R.H the Sultan of Terengganu on the maternal side.

Tengku Ismail was first inspired through his upbringing in the royal family home of Dalam Kota Istana Maziah, a complex of wooden palaces originally built in the early 18th century by Sultan Mansur Shah I of Terengganu (1726-1793), but greatly enlarged by Sultan Zainal Abidin III (1881- 1918) in the early 20th century.

His travels abroad to Europe, Thailand, Indonesia and especially Japan were also influential. While working at Malaysia Pavillion during the world exposition 1970, Expo’ 70 Osaka (Japan), Tengku Ismail visited Nijo-Jo Palace built by the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu, in 1603. This traditional Japanese wooden palace deeply impressed him. It was then that he decided that one day he would do everything in his power to preserve the traditional architecture of his home town state.

Visits to Jim Thomson's house, the Suan Parkkard Thai wooden palace in Bangkok, to various palaces and stately homes in Europe further fueled his enthusiasm to embark on his mission. Through his passion and dedicated effort, Tengku Ismail's vision to recapture Terengganu's vanishing architecture heritage has led to the materialisation of his dream - the Pura Tanjung Sabtu.

Pura Tanjung Sabtu is an architectural marvel and unique manifestation of grandeur. Between 1992 and 1996, Tengku Ismail quite literally moved houses and reassembled them at Kampung Tanjung Sabtu. Using the original house-forms of eleven abandoned and dilapidated timber houses between 150 to 200 years old, he rehabilitated them into this centuries-old reincarnation. Wall-panels, pillars, Singhora clay tile and gables from other houses were also salvaged to replace elements that were missing or rotten.

The complex is divided into two wings. Visitors and guests enter through the Balai or main entrance hall, the Rumah Seberang Baroh consisting of an open one-sided wall-panel of "Dinding Kembung Keset" Finely planed boards were fitted vertically and pegged into position by narrow, wooden cover-ribs. Here, a platform extends out as an ideal location for evening entertainment. The Singhora clay tiles and graceful gables for the roof of these houses were retrieved from the dismantled wooden palaces of Dalam Kota Istana Maziah. All the seven houses of the main complex, averaging 20 feet by 30 feet each, are connected by raised wooden walkways. The names given to the houses are those of villages from where they were brought.

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